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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.